Plumbing Fall 2001 Rexhall Industries, Inc. Newsletter
	This month we decided to go back to the basics. We are going to start with the primary plumbing systems and as time goes on, we will work through all of the other systems. Your fresh water system is designed with simplicity with the end user in mind. Whether you have a gravity feed system, a Swan “Quick Fill” or the 2002 fill station, they all work with the same basic supply and demand approach. Most of our coaches have water lines constructed of AST nylon. This is an extremely flexible, semi-transparent waterline designed for carrying fresh water. The piping is marked in two colors…red for hot and blue for cold. Some of the advantages of this water line are a 3 ½” turn radius, it’s virtually rupture free, (good elasticity) and decent memory retention. In order to test it I have a section of water line in the freezer here at the plant. I have taken it out and beaten it with a hammer, a whole bunch of times, and due to its inherent flexibility it’s still leak-proof. If you accidentally bend it too far (tighter than 3 ½”) and kink the line, you simply heat it up until it’s clear, then let it cool off. Once it returns to the semi-transparent state you will have a difficult time finding the kink. (A good blow dryer will do the trick). This isn’t to say you can’t puncture the line. I suggest that you don’t nail, staple or screw anything into the walls where you suspect your water lines are, much less use a power drill (Water and Electricity can be a real hair curling experience). We now have three different methods to fill your water tank. Take the time to read your owner’s manual to learn more about filling, winterizing and disinfecting your system. Your drainage system is a different kettle of fish. There are now three basic systems for draining your tanks. Some are just a barrel of fun. If your coach does not come with a “Flush System”, be prepared to stick a hose in the toilet (when I was young, this was my assigned job. My dad was no dummy). No matter what system you have we recommend that you fill the tank approx. ¾ of the way, then open the valve. This will greatly reduce the chance of foreign material getting stuck on the sensors (no, I’m not going to go into the “foreign material”, you already know what I mean). Once again, I suggest that you review your owner’s manual for the proper techniques. I have had owners call me with a few questions and ideas that might help all of you out there on the road. I thought I would include them here since they are plumbing related. If you drain your gray tank first, remember to close off the drain valve BEFORE you open the black water tank to drain it. If you don’t, simple dynamics will siphon the water out of your drain traps and you will soon have a very particular and possibly nasty odor floating through out your coach. If you store your coach for an extended period of time in a warm dry climate, think about going by once in a while and pouring some water down your drains. You only need a cup or so to refill your drain traps and once again, you will avoid the odor demon. Lastly, I have had people call me about their sensors not working. The biggest complaint is that they read full or partially full even if they just emptied their tanks. Once again, first try filling the tank before emptying it. If this doesn’t help you have a couple of options. You could buy some of that stuff they say will clean the sensors or you could make ice cream (not really). What I mean is really a simple solution. Go to a local grocery store and buy a 20-lb. bag of ice. You will also need a box of rock salt (like we use to make ice cream). The best method is to open your toilet and dump some of the ice in (5 lbs. or so) dump in some salt, then more ice; more salt etc. until it is all gone. Depending on the outside temp. you might want to dump in a couple gallons of water. Next find yourself an open area to drive around in (actually go there before you start the process). Start and stop your coach for a period of time and monitor your sensor panel. They should improve. What you are doing is creating ice/salt sandpaper. The salt will cling to the ice, and as it sloshes around it will scrub the inside of your tank clean. After this has been done, simply fill your tank and dump it. I have been told that this really works and is a whole lot cheaper than those fancy cleaners. As before, if you have any questions, please feel free to contact me at  rod@rexhall.com or call me at the plant. I hope to see ya all at the rally. Happy trails, Rod JonesEngineering
	Click to return to:  REXHALL TECH TALK HOME
	Click to return to:  TECH TIP HOME
	Click to return to:  HOME